Mer Kaffe
Breakfasts all day, strong flat white and wine in the evenings on Vasilyevsky Island
St. Petersburg, heated by the unaccustomed heat, is seeing off the last evening of the weekend in order to plunge into a new working week tomorrow.
The travolator at Sportivnaya slowly pulls people going nowhere in a hurry. I climb up to the surface, and in a few minutes I'm already turning off Sredny Prospekt onto the narrow stone-paved Repin Street, having had time to note how beautifully the carved spire of St Michael's Cathedral catches the warm rays of the setting sun.
The travolator at Sportivnaya slowly pulls people going nowhere in a hurry. I climb up to the surface, and in a few minutes I'm already turning off Sredny Prospekt onto the narrow stone-paved Repin Street, having had time to note how beautifully the carved spire of St Michael's Cathedral catches the warm rays of the setting sun.
St. Petersburg, heated by the unaccustomed heat, is seeing off the last evening of the weekend in order to plunge into a new working week tomorrow.
The travolator at Sportivnaya slowly pulls people going nowhere in a hurry. I climb up to the surface, and in a few minutes I'm already turning off Sredny Prospekt onto the narrow stone-paved Repin Street, having had time to note how beautifully the carved spire of St Michael's Cathedral catches the warm rays of the setting sun.
The travolator at Sportivnaya slowly pulls people going nowhere in a hurry. I climb up to the surface, and in a few minutes I'm already turning off Sredny Prospekt onto the narrow stone-paved Repin Street, having had time to note how beautifully the carved spire of St Michael's Cathedral catches the warm rays of the setting sun.
I walk past the walls of the Vasileostrovsky market and on to the neighbouring sand-coloured building, on the corner of which Mer Kaffe is nestled.
As evening begins to descend on the city, the soft light from the arches of the gallery seems even more welcoming.
Sunday evening is not my usual time to visit Mer, I usually find myself here on Saturday morning.
It's probably one of the few places open from 8am every day. From 8:30, to be exact. And until 23. Especially on this part of town.
As evening begins to descend on the city, the soft light from the arches of the gallery seems even more welcoming.
Sunday evening is not my usual time to visit Mer, I usually find myself here on Saturday morning.
It's probably one of the few places open from 8am every day. From 8:30, to be exact. And until 23. Especially on this part of town.
I walk past the walls of the Vasileostrovsky market and on to the neighbouring sand-coloured building, on the corner of which Mer Kaffe is nestled.
As evening begins to descend on the city, the soft light from the arches of the gallery seems even more welcoming.
Sunday evening is not my usual time to visit Mer, I usually find myself here on Saturday morning.
It's probably one of the few places open from 8am every day. From 8:30, to be exact. And until 23. Especially on this part of town.
This is another project from roasters Bolshecoffee Roasters. Mer Kaffe is the Swedish word for "more coffee" and "bolshe coffee" in Russian. Their recognisable ducks stare at you from the packages of beans on the display case, which occupies the whole wall to the ceiling behind the bar, if you can call it a small table with equipment.
This is another project from roasters Bolshecoffee Roasters. Mer Kaffe is the Swedish word for "more coffee" and "bolshe coffee" in Russian. Their recognisable ducks stare at you from the packages of beans on the display case, which occupies the whole wall to the ceiling behind the bar, if you can call it a small table with equipment.
On either side of the glass entrance group, in the niches created, there are seats for one with a comfortable leather armchair.
Next to it is a low black coffee table that serves as a stand for coffee in the morning or a glass of wine in the evening.
A tall, rich grass-coloured radiator in the corner to the right of the entrance seems to me to be a very pretty detail of the interior.
On the other side, a small black trolley trolley holds water glasses and carafes, with an underwater tap coming straight out of the wall.
Next to it is a low black coffee table that serves as a stand for coffee in the morning or a glass of wine in the evening.
A tall, rich grass-coloured radiator in the corner to the right of the entrance seems to me to be a very pretty detail of the interior.
On the other side, a small black trolley trolley holds water glasses and carafes, with an underwater tap coming straight out of the wall.
On either side of the glass entrance group, in the niches created, there are seats for one with a comfortable leather armchair.
Next to it is a low black coffee table that serves as a stand for coffee in the morning or a glass of wine in the evening.
A tall, rich grass-coloured radiator in the corner to the right of the entrance seems to me to be a very pretty detail of the interior.
On the other side, a small black trolley trolley holds water glasses and carafes, with an underwater tap coming straight out of the wall.
Next to it is a low black coffee table that serves as a stand for coffee in the morning or a glass of wine in the evening.
A tall, rich grass-coloured radiator in the corner to the right of the entrance seems to me to be a very pretty detail of the interior.
On the other side, a small black trolley trolley holds water glasses and carafes, with an underwater tap coming straight out of the wall.
I order a consistently delicious, strong and very reasonably priced Flat White. I sit down at a corner table and look up at the tall panes of glass, the shape of which echo the arches of the passageway gallery that shelters the coffee shop.
The ceiling vaults are still the same gallery. Communications and pipes are not hidden, as is often the case in modern establishments, but are painted in a basic creamy beige colour.
The ceiling vaults are still the same gallery. Communications and pipes are not hidden, as is often the case in modern establishments, but are painted in a basic creamy beige colour.
The arrangement of furniture here is interesting and the space is utilised as efficiently as possible.
Instead of a massive bar right at the entrance, guests are greeted by a low oval long table, which serves as a display case for desserts, a place to settle accounts, and a place to work on a laptop at the same time.
By the way, this is the only table in the coffee house where you can work.
The rest of the tables are carefully labelled with stickers asking people not to play with gadgets larger than a phone at them.
Instead of a massive bar right at the entrance, guests are greeted by a low oval long table, which serves as a display case for desserts, a place to settle accounts, and a place to work on a laptop at the same time.
By the way, this is the only table in the coffee house where you can work.
The rest of the tables are carefully labelled with stickers asking people not to play with gadgets larger than a phone at them.
In this half of the room there are six tables, two of which are nestled around a low bench along the entire side window overlooking the grape-lined market wall.
A practical two-sided sofa, centred around a variety of potted greenery, serves as both a cosy seating area and a natural low screen that separates the other half of the room.
Behind it are mirrored tables and one massive round table for six persons with natural wooden chairs made either of beech or of another noble solid wood. They are all slightly different in shape and colour, which adds a touch of imperfect grace.
Further on, my gaze rests on the open kitchen, from which I can smell the food being cooked. From time to time, the chef places a finished order on the steel counter and presses a plump metal bell.
A practical two-sided sofa, centred around a variety of potted greenery, serves as both a cosy seating area and a natural low screen that separates the other half of the room.
Behind it are mirrored tables and one massive round table for six persons with natural wooden chairs made either of beech or of another noble solid wood. They are all slightly different in shape and colour, which adds a touch of imperfect grace.
Further on, my gaze rests on the open kitchen, from which I can smell the food being cooked. From time to time, the chef places a finished order on the steel counter and presses a plump metal bell.
Every morning, but especially on weekends, Mer Kaffe is filled with devotees of varied, practical, yet gourmet breakfasts.
Eggs in three varieties with all sorts of toppings, several sweet options - including the legendary-as-reputation cheesecakes.
Of the main meals, I'm partial to the grilled-cheese sandwich - two slices of their own tartine with cheese, sauce, spinach. There's also a torn beef option. My friend prefers mac&cheese pasta, and I sometimes have a spicy soup of roasted peppers with chickpeas.
Eggs in three varieties with all sorts of toppings, several sweet options - including the legendary-as-reputation cheesecakes.
Of the main meals, I'm partial to the grilled-cheese sandwich - two slices of their own tartine with cheese, sauce, spinach. There's also a torn beef option. My friend prefers mac&cheese pasta, and I sometimes have a spicy soup of roasted peppers with chickpeas.
One of the reasons I think Mer Kaffe is open until 23 is the local cuisine and the extremely pleasant atmosphere for a leisurely dinner.
Bottles of wine rest in small narrow refrigerators, neatly integrated into the interior. On their walls in white marker are written positions, which today are served by the glass.
By the way, the prices for coffee and other drinks can also be found on the wall opposite the main table.
Bottles of wine rest in small narrow refrigerators, neatly integrated into the interior. On their walls in white marker are written positions, which today are served by the glass.
By the way, the prices for coffee and other drinks can also be found on the wall opposite the main table.
In summer, it's especially good here—almost always two glass doors are open at once, which makes the breeze flow through the hall. On one July day, I spent a long time watching poplar fluff, which had accidentally flown in, dancing across the floor.
Several paper garlands and bulbs stretched in rows above the vaults of the terrace. In the corner, two low metal chairs with puffy seats are nestled behind tall potted plants. This place seems like a very tempting way to escape the stuffiness of overly sunny weather.
Especially with the seasonal spiced espresso tonic, whose slightly tart, non-coffee element is of its own making.
Several paper garlands and bulbs stretched in rows above the vaults of the terrace. In the corner, two low metal chairs with puffy seats are nestled behind tall potted plants. This place seems like a very tempting way to escape the stuffiness of overly sunny weather.
Especially with the seasonal spiced espresso tonic, whose slightly tart, non-coffee element is of its own making.
I feel so cosy here that I don't want to leave, even though dusk has already covered the island.
From the speakers I hear long jazz, soft electronica, and familiar songs. None of the melodies causes any resistance—they all organically fit into the atmosphere.
And even more so, they create it in accompaniment with the barely audible noise of steam from the coffee machine, the hissing of frying pans and the conversations of the visitors.
From the speakers I hear long jazz, soft electronica, and familiar songs. None of the melodies causes any resistance—they all organically fit into the atmosphere.
And even more so, they create it in accompaniment with the barely audible noise of steam from the coffee machine, the hissing of frying pans and the conversations of the visitors.
The coffee cup warms my hands, the first notes of "Karma Police" by Radiohead are reflected from the ceiling vaults and reach me and it makes me feel even cosier.
Your place worth a story
And I'd love to tell it